Top 5 foods of Indonesia

Obviously I didn't eat everything. I made an effort, but backpackers can't afford to buy new clothes every time the buttons start to pop. Here’s a list of the best things I ate in Indonesia. 

Suckling pig Balinese style

I know that the internet is full of everyone’s two pennies over Iku Oba’s suckling pork. I’m not an expert. But of a possible 21 meals, two were spent at Iku Oba. The business has responded to the mounting queues by carving in advance, but the product is still delicious. Moist flakes of roast meat, perfect square wafers of crackling, and spicy veggie sides served with rice on a banana leaf. Nothing goes to waste as the blood and offal are transformed into a primitive black pudding. As spit roasted pig goes, you might not get your meat fix, but you’re here for the flavours. Easily my favourite meal in Bali. 

Eat first. Photo afterthought.

Barbecued fresh lake fish at Lake Toba, Sumatra

I am mad keen for fish, keep it simple, fresh, and whole, please. Lake Toba tapped into my heart when every menu offered fresh fish from the lake. The first fish we tried was at Jenny’s (couldn’t resist). It was steamed, stained neon yellow from a giant root of turmeric, and swimming in the juices of at least six more spices. Divine. On the second day however, our twelve year old chef cooked up their speciality of barbecued fish. A couple of beers later an enormous, crisp skinned, white fleshed, juicy fish arrived, accompanied by Batak ‘spesial sos’. Each restaurant makes their sauce differently, this one was vibrantly zesty. So good, we ate it every day. 

Don't let the teeth put you off.

Nasi campur, throughout Indonesia

This is a bit of a cop out. Nasi campur, or ‘champur’, is basically the house dish. You’re never sure of what you’re going to get; you only know it will be awesome. The first one we had was a complete accident. I was becoming hungry angry, and without a Snickers to chew on we had to stop at the first place we found. The server told us all we could have was nasi campur or nasi campur spesial. What arrived was pretty simple in essence, chicken with rice. But the accompanying sides make the dish. In Bali there might be stir fried Asian spinach with coconut. In Java there might be gudeg, a sweet young jackfruit curry. In Sumatera there was often a sort of cabbage pakora. Just relax and enjoy the surprise.

Nasi campur; rice, beansprouts, tempeh, mackerel fishcake, fried shredded chicken,
peanuts, anchovies, satay chicken, boiled egg, crackers and sambal, all on one plate.

Sambal

It’s not a dish in itself. But all across Indonesia you will find your food comes crowned with a healthy serve of sambal, a chilli based condiment. This might not sound exciting, but each patch of Indonesia prepares theirs differently. In Bali they preferred a more raw product, usually chillies and shallots are marinaded and served raw. In Java, the preferred sambal is a sauce. Pulverised chillis and shallots, combined with vinegar, garlic, sugar, salt, and often fermented shrimp paste. Sambal in Lake Toba was similar, but tangier from the addition of citrus, usually calamansi.

Barbecued chicken with three types of sambal

Soto Ayam

Chicken soup, bit not as you know it. Again it is subject to regional variation. In Bali it was a clear broth served with root vegetables and shredded chicken. In Sumatra it became much more exciting. Sumatrans tend to serve their soto ayam as a slightly curried, coconut chicken broth. Both styles are warming and wholesome, though personally I preferred the simpler soto ayam in Bali, with plenty of sambal. Do it like the locals and dunk your rice in the soup.